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Eddie Graaf

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Stephanie Nel

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About What we do


A good rule of thumb is to resurface your flywheel every time you have your clutch worked on.

There are some signs you and your mechanic should look for to see if the flywheel needs a resurface job or a complete replacement. These signs can help you decide whether resurfacing or replacing the flywheel is appropriate, as worn or badly damaged flywheels can often lead to expensive clutch repairs.

Is there glazing or discoloration? If so, your flywheel needs to be resurfaced. Glazing and discoloration are signs of wear and can prevent it from meeting the clutch smoothly and will help keep the clutch from slipping or abnormal wear.

Are there signs of cracking? This would be bad because it means the part is unsafe for continued use. Cracked flywheels can actually explode while in use, making this a very dangerous situation. Additionally, cracked flywheels also mean that the shift mechanisms could wear out quickly

Is the part “cupped” or unevenly worn? “Cupping” is caused by the interior surface of the part being worn down by constant contact with the clutch. Uneven wear indicates another problem, such as a misaligned part or one that has too much “play” between it and the contact point. Your mechanic can tell you if this is a problem that can be solved by a resurface job or if a replacement is more appropriate. A lot depends on how badly worn the part is and how uneven the wear is. Beyond certain factory tolerances, the part has to be replaced for continued safe operation.

There comes a time in the life of every flywheel when it needs to be resurfaced. That time is usually when the clutch is replaced. Normal clutch operation generates a lot of friction and heat. The mass of the flywheel absorbs and dissipates the heat. If the clutch is starting to slip, even more heat is generated. The added thermal stress can cause heat cracks, warpage and the formation of hard spots in the surface of the flywheel.

When the old clutch is removed, the flywheel should always be carefully inspected to determine its condition. This includes measuring the flatness of the flywheel with a straightedge and feeler gauge, and inspect the surface for cracks, grooving or hard spots (discolored areas that are slightly raised above the surrounding surface).

Some specifications allow a maximum runout of up to .0005 inch per inch of flywheel diameter. But according to some experts, more than .002 inches of runout on a typical passenger car flywheel may cause chatter and vibration problems. More than .005 inches of runout increases the risk of severe vibrations that may cause the clutch to fail. Flatter is always better.

Of course, if the surface of the flywheel is flat and free from defects, there is no need to resurface it. But if it is not in like-new condition, the flywheel should be resurfaced before the new clutch is installed.

If a worn flywheel is not resurfaced, the replacement clutch won't last. Most clutch suppliers will not honor such a warranty claim if the flywheel was not resurfaced (or was resurfaced incorrectly) when the clutch was installed. Installing a new clutch disc on a worn or warped surface is asking for trouble, yet all too often the flywheel is not resurfaced to save time or money.

If a flywheel is found to be damaged (cracks that are more than surface deep, or cracks around the crankshaft bolt holes), replacement is required. A cracked flywheel can explode with tremendous force, so under no circumstances should you take a chance on a flywheel that is questionable.

On many flywheels, the starter ring gear is a separate component that is pressed on and can be replaced if any of the teeth are damaged. If the teeth are part of the flywheel itself and are damaged, a new flywheel should be installed to eliminate any possible cranking problems.

If a flywheel needs to be resurfaced or replaced, its index position with respect to the crankshaft should be clearly marked prior to removal to maintain proper engine balance. This step is critical with engines that are "externally" balanced (those that don't have large flywheel counterweights and rely on the balance of the flywheel to minimize vibrations).


We have invested in a state-of-the-art brake disc skimming machine which will resurface your existing discs at a fraction of the cost. Brake discs should not need to be replaced until they reach a minimum thickness. In most cases brakes are subject to uneven wear and tear due to rust, friction and heat. Resurfacing and aligning the brake discs correctly will solve any problems and give smooth, even braking for several thousand kilometres. Brake disc skimming is a quick and easy process. There is no need to dismantle the braking system as the discs can be resurfaced whilst they are still on the vehicle – saving you both time and money.


  • There is brake vibration or shudder
  • Brake Discs are corroded or rusty
  • Brake squeal or noisy brakes
  • Brake pads are changed but new discs are not necessary
  • Brakes feel spongy or soft


The lathe works on the vehicle, by attaching itself directly to the hub. The technology includes an automatic, electronically-controlled, gyroscope system which measures run-out in the hub and corrects for this to an accuracy of 0.025mm. That's less than the thickness of a human hair!

The automatic surface machining of a disc is completed in around 4 minutes. The complete process takes less than 10 minutes per disc. All brake discs can be skimmed at least once.

The only time your brake discs should be replaced is when they reach minimum thickness. Leading manufacturers have approved the Pro-Cut process of brake disc skimming.

Brake disc skimming – a better quality and lower cost alternative to brake disc replacement.

The truth about disc skimming

  • LIE: Brake disc skimming makes discs too thin.

    FACT: If a set of discs was too thin in the first place they should be replaced. We’d never argue with that. But…. the machining process removes only the tiniest slice. Caorle’s on-car brake lathe shaves off typically just 0.3 to 0.5mm of total disc thickness. So if there was at least this amount of material left on the disc, skimming it is not a problem.

  • LIE:Brake disc skimming doesn't solve brake shudder.

    FACT: Caorle TP32 machines have been around since 1999. Since then they've been tested and approved by almost every vehicle manufacturer, because they solve brake vibration problems. With some makes of vehicle it’s mandatory for the dealership to have the machine.

  • LIE: You don’t need to skim discs on the car.

    FACT: Yes you do! You can skim brake discs off the car, using a bench lathe. But why would you want to spend time removing the disc and then refitting it? And more importantly, off-car machining doesn't take account of any hub run-out or unwanted particles between mating surfaces. You must make sure the disc is actually matched to the hub to which it’s fitted, meaning that the disc has to be machined on the car.

  • LIE: There are lots of vehicles whose brake discs can’t be skimmed.

    FACT: With their hub-mounted design, Caorle brake lathes can skim any disc on any vehicle up to 3.5 tonnes. This includes all front and rear discs, solid, vented, cross-drilled and slotted discs.

  • LIE: Disc skimming is long and arduous.

    FACT: With Caorle the process is amazingly easy and quick- just 9 minutes per disc. After removing the brake pads it’s just 4 simple steps: (1) Attach a hub adapter in place of the wheel (2) Connect the Caorle lathe to the adapter (3) Press the auto-adjustment button (4) Cut the disc.


Brake drums rely on good contact between the brake Shoes and the Brake Drum. As the drums get older they can get scored and wear unevenly. They may also warp a bit due to constantly getting hot and cold in normal operation.

When the shoes are replaced they have a perfect surface and if the old drum is installed without machining back to a perfect surface, the shoes only grip on the high points and brake efficiency can be poor.